Due to the lack of IFP or any pressurized components, the Rock Shox pull shock is very quick and easy to service.
Remove the spring and spring perch and clamp the eyelet assembly of the shock in a vise.
The two ends of the shock are locked into the shaft by the top out bumper perch and the bottom out bumper perch. Unlock them by loosening the perches.
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| Unlocking the top out bumper perch. |
Remove the rebound adjuster assembly from the shaft and the bottom out bumper and perch.
Using an adjustable wrench, loosen the two end caps of the shock. If you can't hold the shock bodily tightly enough with just your hand, lock the preload adjuster and trunnion together and use those for added grip.
Remove the shock from the vise and remove the eyelet assembly, top out bumper and perch, preload adjuster, trunnion, and both end caps. If the eyelet assembly is too tight on the shaft to remove by hand, use a 10mm shaft vise.
Empty the old oil from the shock, remove the shaft and damper piston assembly, and thoroughly clean all parts.
Service
Using a pick, carefully remove the wiper and o-ring from the end caps, and using a flat screwdriver, carefully remove the oil seal from the end caps.
The wiper is a proprietary size, but didn't work very well anyway, so we're using an o-ring instead. Lubricate a 16x10 o-ring with Slickoleum and install it in the wiper gland of the end cap. Lubricate a TC oil seal with Slickoleum and install it in the oil seal gland of the end cap. Use soft jaws in your vise to fully seat it. Lubricate a 25x20 o-ring with Slickoleum and install it on the o-ring gland of the end cap.
Bleed
I bleed using the immersion method.
First, put the shock with the end caps on the shaft but not screw to the body in a gallon Ziploc freezer bag. Then pour in about a liter of suspension oil, and burp and seal the bag. Have someone hold a corner of the bag, or clamp it in a vise, to free both your hands.
Move the shock around to purge any air from it, then screw both end caps into the body. Keep the shock submerged in the oil at all times! Take extra care keep the hollow top half of the shaft submerged.
Get the two end caps as tight as you make them by hand; it'll be enough to keep oil from leaking out. The oil will soften the Ziploc bag, so don't take too long.
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| Immersion bleeding with a Risse Racing Shock. |
Remove the shock from the bag with the hollow top shaft facing up so it doesn't lose any oil. Clamp the shock back into the vise.
Pour the remaining oil in the bag back into its bottle.
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| Clamped in vise after bleeding, with the end caps tightened. Excess oil is seen at the top of the shaft. |
Finish tightening down the two end caps with an adjustable wrench. As you tighten them down excess oil will come out the top of the shaft. Be very careful moving the shock as it can cause oil to shoot out the shaft.
Reassembly
Lubricate the rebound needle o-ring with Slickoleum (replace if necessary/wanted), then turn the rebound knob all the way fast / all the way out. Install the bottom out bumper and perch on the shaft and thread it on all the way. Install the rebound assembly and thread it on until it stops. Then while holding the rebound assembly in place with an adjustable wrench, lock the bottom out bumper perch against it using the 15mm cone wrench.
You can now safely cycle the shock. It should cycle smoothly and should make any slurping noises.
Remove the eyelet assembly from the shaft. Install the top out bumper and perch and thread it on all the way. Install the eyelet assembly and thread it on until it stops. While holding the eyelet assembly with an adjustable wrench or in the vise, lock the top out bumper perch against it using the 15mm cone wrench.
Clean the shock with alcohol and a clean paper towel.
