Shimano BH90 and BH59 barb sizes

Shimano BH90 brake hose is 5mm OD and 2.1mm ID. The OEM barb diameter is 2.35mm. Aftermarket barb diameters range from 2.31mm to 2.39mm.

Shimano BH59 brake hose is 5MM OD and 2.3mm ID. The OEM barb daimeter is 2.6mm. 

The olives are the same for both.

Schwinn Sweetspot notes

 1. The bushings in 2gen Sweetspots are usually too wide, and you need to pull the rear triangle apart to make it fit over the bushings. Since the rear triangle is pinching the bushings really hard, it adds a lot of friction to the system. To fix this I removed the bushing, and then lapped their outside surface using a sheet of 150 sandpaper on a flat surface, finishing them off with 400 sandpaper. I removed just enough material so the rear triangle is only lightly pinching the bushings. This doesn't introduce any slop in the suspension system, but does remove a lot of friction. I probably wouldn’t try this with the Teflon coated aluminum bushing some Homegrowns use as you can remove the Teflon layer completely. 

2. The front and rear triangle are always slightly misaligned. This causes the shock to bend slightly when installed. This isn't really a problems with the RS coil shocks, but is a problem with the Alps series Fox air shocks. The Alps will partially bind, which adds a lot of stiction to the shock, and can also cause a shaft failure, as it's having to support a lot of sideways force it was never meant to support. I wonder if Schwinn started specing the coil shocks so they wouldn't have to deal with this issue. To fix the problem, mount one end of the shock in the frame, and then see how far it's off at the other mount. You can then either install a shorter bushing on one side, or sand down the outside surface of the existing bushing. Use washers to make up any necessary space between the other bushing and frame. This will center the shock correctly in the frame. The shock will still be forced to bend slightly as it compresses, but it's negligible.

Yamaha YDX-Moro rear shock upgrade

The Yamaha YDX-Moro isn't well suited for a coil rear shock. As seen below, the leverage ratio isn't very progressive, and becomes regressive in the last 17% of travel. 

Regardless, the tolerances around the Yamaha YDX-Moro rear shock are very tight. Although a RockShox coil shock will successfully bolt up, at full compression the coil will hit the frame. A Fox coil shock or Bomber CR coil shock uses a coil with an outside diameter 4mm smaller than the RockShox, which might technically work but with coil bulging it might still hit.

The best option is sending the stock shock out for custom valving. I personally use Avalanche Downhill Racing: http://www.avalanchedownhillracing.com/Rock%20Shox/Rockshox%20Super%20Deluxe%20RC3%20SSD_HSB%20Mods.htm

Yamaha YDX-Moro geometry

The Yamaha YDX-Moro has a listed actual seat tube angle of 70.3*. However, the seat tube connects well ahead of the bottom bracket, so the effective seat tube angle is significantly steeper. Unfortunately, they do not list the effective seat post angle. 

The effective seat post angle of the YDX-Moro and YDX-Moro Pro is approximately 74.5*. 

The effective seat post angle of the of the YDX-Moro 05 and YDX-Moro 07 is approximately 75.5*. The angle is steeper for the 05 and 07 because they use the newer PW-X3 motor whose bottom bracket spindle sits 5mm further back.

TranzX EDP01 manual

 TranzX doesn't offer the manual for their EDP01 online, so here is a scanned version.

NOTE: TranzX recommends inflating the seatpost while it's in the extended position.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18S4yTX7dBpbcPK3YXnevwuec7jN_EbsQ/view?usp=sharing

Rock Shox Deluxe pull shock rebuild

Rock Shox Deluxe pull shock rebuild - 50mm travel

Bill of Material:

O-ring (Buna or Viton) 16mm OD x 10mm ID x 3mm width - https://a.co/d/hH2sRR9

O-ring (Buna or Viton) 25mm OD x 20mm ID x 2.5mm width - https://a.co/d/ampJWyj
TC oil seal 10mm ID x 20mm OD x 7mm height - https://a.co/d/5dajKVA
Slickoleum grease

Suspension Oil - Stock was 5wt, but can be increased for increased damping. Approximately 1 liter is required for bleeding.

Tools Required:

Adjustable wrench

15mm cone wrench

Vise with soft jaws

10mm shaft vise (potentially not required)

NOTE: I have no measure the rebound needle o-ring and therefore do not know its size.

Due to the lack of IFP or any pressurized components, the Rock Shox pull shock is very quick and easy to service. 

Working on shocks can be dangerous. Always wear eye protection when working on suspension.

Disassembly

Remove the spring and spring perch and clamp the eyelet assembly of the shock in a vise. 

The two ends of the shock are locked into the shaft by the top out bumper perch and the bottom out bumper perch. Unlock them by loosening the perches.

     

Unlocking the top out bumper perch.

Remove the rebound adjuster assembly from the shaft and the bottom out bumper and perch.

Using an adjustable wrench, loosen the two end caps of the shock. If you can't hold the shock bodily tightly enough with just your hand, lock the preload adjuster and trunnion together and use those for added grip. 

Remove the shock from the vise and remove the eyelet assembly, top out bumper and perch, preload adjuster, trunnion, and both end caps. If the eyelet assembly is too tight on the shaft to remove by hand, use a 10mm shaft vise.

Empty the old oil from the shock, remove the shaft and damper piston assembly, and thoroughly clean all parts.

Service

Using a pick, carefully remove the wiper and o-ring from the end caps, and using a flat screwdriver, carefully remove the oil seal from the end caps.

The wiper is a proprietary size, but didn't work very well anyway, so we're using an o-ring instead. Lubricate a 16x10 o-ring with Slickoleum and install it in the wiper gland of the end cap. Lubricate a TC oil seal with Slickoleum and install it in the oil seal gland of the end cap. Use soft jaws in your vise to fully seat it. Lubricate a 25x20 o-ring with Slickoleum and install it on the o-ring gland of the end cap.

Bleed

I bleed using the immersion method.

First, put the shock with the end caps on the shaft but not screw to the body in a gallon Ziploc freezer bag. Then pour in about a liter of suspension oil, and burp and seal the bag. Have someone hold a corner of the bag, or clamp it in a vise, to free both your hands.

Move the shock around to purge any air from it, then screw both end caps into the body. Keep the shock submerged in the oil at all times! Take extra care keep the hollow top half of the shaft submerged.

Get the two end caps as tight as you make them by hand; it'll be enough to keep oil from leaking out. The oil will soften the Ziploc bag, so don't take too long.

Immersion bleeding with a Risse Racing Shock.

Remove the shock from the bag with the hollow top shaft facing up so it doesn't lose any oil. Clamp the shock back into the vise.

Pour the remaining oil in the bag back into its bottle.

Clamped in vise after bleeding, with the end caps tightened. Excess oil is seen at the top of the shaft.

Finish tightening down the two end caps with an adjustable wrench. As you tighten them down excess oil will come out the top of the shaft. Be very careful moving the shock as it can cause oil to shoot out the shaft.

Reassembly

Lubricate the rebound needle o-ring with Slickoleum (replace if necessary/wanted), then turn the rebound knob all the way fast / all the way out. Install the bottom out bumper and perch on the shaft and thread it on all the way. Install the rebound assembly and thread it on until it stops. Then while holding the rebound assembly in place with an adjustable wrench, lock the bottom out bumper perch against it using the 15mm cone wrench.

You can now safely cycle the shock. It should cycle smoothly and should make any slurping noises.

Remove the eyelet assembly from the shaft. Install the top out bumper and perch and thread it on all the way. Install the eyelet assembly and thread it on until it stops. While holding the eyelet assembly with an adjustable wrench or in the vise, lock the top out bumper perch against it using the 15mm cone wrench.

Clean the shock with alcohol and a clean paper towel.

Reinstall the trunnion, preload adjuster, spring, and spring perch.

2001 Schwinn catalog

Courtesy of Blogging a Dead Horse.

Download Catalog as PDF